The Beachouse baby!

Continuing on from my earlier blog this week, raising the topic of tourism also provides an opportune moment to reflect on the trip to the Beachouse. This is an incredibly beautiful spot, and don’t get me wrong, was a welcome escape from Suva and the realities of working life. However, I found myself being more and more grateful that I am not in Fiji purely for the sake of staying in a resort, that I am actually on an intensive learning experience, with the opportunity to contribute back to this country that is so incredibly beautiful and full of such lovely people, but still developing.

The main deck of the Beachouse

While the Beachouse is not quite so token as some of the five-star resorts that litter Fiji, as most of the activities offered are fairly ‘authentic’, including the trek I completed which essentially involved walking barefoot for four hours in mud, there are some which could have the effect of commoditizing Fijian culture. These include things like coconut jewellery making and coconut leaves weaving, pastimes that are traditionally carried out in villages, to produce items that are kept within the village.  These activities are presumably heavily adapted in setting like the Beachouse, to suit those not so familiar with the Fijian traditions. There is clearly a strong relationship between heritage, culture and identity, which militates against the separation of heritage from its custodians and practitioners. However, it may not do well to be entirely negative about activities such as these; practices such as coconut jewellery making and leaves weaving can be considered ‘unique markers of cultural identity for the i-taukei’, to quote Cattermole. Thus, even though perhaps not in their most genuine form, there could be benefit in encouraging the continuation of these cultural practices, for the preservation of the i-taukei culture for future generations. I also have to continually remind myself that culture is a dynamic concept, and it taking on new forms should not necessarily be dismissed as degrading to the people of that culture.

Our guide on the trek at the Beachouse, one of the most 'authentic' tourist experiences I have had

A prime example of the concept of culture taking on new meanings can be seen in the case of Pure Fiji. This enterprise, which manufactures and markets natural bath and body products based upon traditional ingredients and customary manufacturing methods, shows that traditions can be made financially viable. Furthermore, enterprises such as this, by supplying an international market, draw attention to, and global appreciation of, Fijian heritage. Something that would be interesting to investigate with companies such as this are the ownership of traditional knowledge, and indigenous participation and involvement issues that are raised.

Of course, given the focus on passing on culture to the younger generation, which is a theme prevalent across all the four readings, what I have been hearing from the Living Human Treasures project, and the mission of the DNHCA, it is difficult to see how the means of cultural expression can possibly remain static.

This trip is undoubtedly offering a great amalgamation of experiences. We are experiencing culture in its purest form, as defined by the i-taukei at least, what with the visits to Bau and our friendship with the Conservatorium crew, a 9-5 office job, and now, the other extreme to all this, the relaxed tourist industry. It is interesting to see how this is actually characterized by visitors doing nothing at all for days on end but lounging by the beach, dressed scantily, and sipping cocktails, as well as socializing predominantly with those with similar mindsets to themselves, not with those who make Fiji what it is. The staff working at the Beachouse are very much similar to the resort workers featured in the music video We Are Fiji, serving visitors with their smiling faces and flowers in their hair, assisting in the projection of an image of Fiji as ‘pristine, pre-modern, unspoilt paradise.’

Furthermore, I noticed no Indo-Fijians working at the Beachouse, once again providing evidence of the dominance of the i-taukei in Fiji and reinforcing Cattermole’s argument that, while idealized as a desirable goal, Fiji is not yet a society thriving off inter-ethnic harmony.

However, I am still aware of the positive aspects of the tourism industry, and how much those staying in resorts to contribute to the economic growth of the nation. A burgeoning tourism sector is able to reduce dependence on other industries, such as sugar, which are subject to price fluctuations. However, the tourism industry, while important, is vulnerable. It was interesting with my work on the Museum to read about the extent to which the May 2000 political coup affected ticket sales. Thus the importance of encouraging the industry to further blossom cannot be underestimated. In order to do this, there is a need to focus on promoting Fiji as a harmonious and unified nation, like the objective of We Are Fiji. Constructing a national identity for global as well as domestic consumption, as Cattermole asserts, is crucial to Fiji’s development.

The potential of the sector indicates how important it is for tourism to strengthen linkages with the rest of the economy, as this will provide even further opportunities for the nation to progress. I was talking to Elise about the ecotourism projects she had been hearing about and experiencing first-hand in her work with the National Trust. To me, encouraging increased local participation in tourism, and sustainable development, is vital to, firstly raising awareness within communities that might not otherwise be aware of the preciousness of their cultural and natural resources, and, secondly, the overall prosperity of the nation.

On reflection, I thought I should probably mention something an afterthought to this blog. While at the Beachouse, we had the company of the staff of a Fijian company that were holding their Christmas party there. Seeing both indigenous and Indo-Fijians celebrating together at a destination predominantly populated by tourists somewhat contradicts my earlier statements and adds an element of ‘authenticity’ to the entire experience. These people were without a doubt the rowdiest group on Saturday, and drank copious amounts of kava throughout the entire day. The Fijian friendliness was extremely evident in their attitudes; they were always keen to strike up conversations with us, and did not adopt any aloofness to those that were not Fijian. This attitude presents somewhat of a contrast to some of those staying at the Beachouse. The two Germans that Hannah and I went on the trek with were not particularly interested in being sociable. However, to avoid falling into the trap of making generalizations, it is important to note that we also met two lovely girls, one from Switzerland, the other Australian, who made the effort to come over and join our group, due to being on their own.